From Judith:

Having turned seriously to chess in retirement at age 65, I have found much inspiration on your website. I own and study many of your books and have come to trust your advice. Thus I have made the Caro-Kann my defense of choice against e4, with limited study time left to me in life! I have become intrigued with the more combative 6…Bb4 when developing the dark-squared Bishop against the Panov-Botvinnik Attack.

This feisty move is played by Karpov in Kamsky-Karpov, Elista 1996 – the only Caro-Kann game in John Nunn's excellent UNDERSTANDING CHESS MOVE BY MOVE (click to see reviews by Donaldson and Watson): 1.e4 c6 2.d4 d5 3.exd5 cxd5 4.c4 Nf6 5.Nc3 e6 6.Nf3 Bb4 7.cxd5 Nxd5 8.Qd2 Nc6, etc. Karpov proceeds to win with an exemplary attack against White's isolated d-pawn. Unfortunately, my regular opponent does not cooperate with 8.Bd2 (or 8.Qc2, the only alternative mentioned by Nunn), but has found he can invariably overwhelm me after 8.Qb3. I have tried everything, and spent much time on this, but cannot come up with a solid line for Black after 8.Qb3. Can there possibly be no answer to this move? Would Nunn not have mentioned 8.Qb3 if it were this good? Would Karpov have risked this move with 6…Bb4 if he did not have a good defense for 8.Qb3?

HOW SHOULD BLACK DEFEND?

If you cannot help here, I will reluctantly give up this idea and return to the more defensive …Be7 when first developing my dark-squared Bishop.Finally, I'm hoping you will give some attention to the following two confusions that have caused me trouble in my games as Black:(1) What positional considerations can I look out for when deciding when it is safe to capture White's isolated d-pawn? Though sometimes it seems to be under-defended, I have quickly come to grief by taking it too soon. I know that in master games elaborate preparations are made before collecting this pawn, but in amateur play it seems there might be some guidelines to consider, if you believe your opponent may really have left the pawn vulnerable.(2) How to decide on activating my light-squared Bishop in a timely manner. Too soon and you can lose the b-pawn, but I have mostly gotten into trouble for waiting too long. Should Black play …Bd7? Perhaps a quick …b6 followed by …Bb7? Wait for a freeing …e5? A few typical examples (if there are such things) would be helpful.

 

Silman replies:

I'll start by answering your final two questions, and will then address the actual opening analysis at the end.

In a way, both questions can be answered, in part, by simply mastering basic “anti-isolated d-pawn strategy.” In fact, a careful study of pages 241 to 250 (Isolated pawns, isolated pawn couple, hanging pawns, hanging squares) in THE COMPLETE BOOK OF CHESS STRATEGY (a second letter by the same reader let me know that she already had this book) will prove very helpful in getting a handle on the typical positions that occur from the Panov-Botvinnik Attack.

In general, when you're playing against an isolated d-pawn, the first thing you want to do is gain total control over the d5-square. This freezes the pawn (an immobile target is easier to hit) and also gives your pieces access to a fine home/hole on d5.

Since White will be trying to gain kingside attacking chances, Black's long-term strategy is:

* Freeze the pawn, as mention above.

 * Exchange as many minor pieces as possible. Why? Because too many trades end White's attacking chances, and a position with only Queen's and Rooks means that the once dynamic d-pawn will now be nothing more than a permanent weakness.

* Place pressure on the d-pawn since this pawn structure only shines in positions with active pieces. An isolated d-pawn isn't a happy possession if you're forced to defend.

* In a simple world you would try to win this pawn later in the game, once White's attacking prospects were gone. However, as you take aim at d4, opportunities often arise that allow you to “enjoy a snack.” Taking the pawn can free your pieces and let them stream effectively through the center, or it could lead to tactical problems. Each situation is different, and must be assessed individually when the occasion arises.

 * The perfect position for Black is Queen and Rook vs. Queen and Rook. Black's Rook would be on d5 (hitting d4 and blocking out any dreams of a d4-d5 advance), and his Queen would be on d7 (doubling against d4).

MISERABLE FOR WHITE

In the diagram, White has to deal with the threat of …e6-e5, pinning and winning the d-pawn. The only way to prevent this is by f2-f4, but the resulting position, though perhaps tenable, is nothing but suffering for White due to his open King and weak d-pawn.

As for where Black's light-squared Bishop should go, at times it moves to d7 and, after the f-Rook goes to d8, the Bishop backs up to e8 where it gives the kingside some support. More common (and usually more effective!), though, is …b6 and …Bb7 (or …a6 followed by …b5 and …Bb7) when the Bishop takes control of the a8-h1 diagonal (making it a very active piece) and also lays claim to the d5-square. A definitive answer isn't possible since it depends on how White has developed and what move order he uses.

Let's now move on to the variation that's been giving you trouble: 1.e4 c6 2.d4 d5 3.exd5 cxd5 4.c4

This is one of White's most dangerous tries against the Caro-Kann.

4…Nf6 5.Nc3 e6

Many inexperienced Caro-Kann practitioners play the mistaken 5…Bf5, and usually get routed after 6.Qb3 with a double attack against d5 and b7.

6.Nf3 Bb4

Black's main response used to be 6…Be7, and though that's fully playable, most Caro aficionados have turned to 6…Bb4. Here's one example of 6…Be7: 7.cxd5 Nxd5 8.Bd3 Nc6 9.0-0 0-0 10.Re1 Bf6 11.Be4 Nce7 and now many books claim that 12.Ne5 puts Black under pressure. However, the paradoxical 12…Nc6! is an effective reply since the structures resulting from 13.Nxc6 (13.Nf3 Nce7 repeats and can lead to a quick draw) 13…bxc6 are known to be more or less harmless.

7.cxd5

White can transpose directly into a Nimzo-Indian (Karpov Variation) by 7.Bd3 dxc4 8.Bxc4, though Black is thought to be okay in that line.

7…Nxd5 8.Qb3 Nc6 9.Bd3 Qb6!

THE “CURE” FOR 8.Qb3

This is the move that took the fun out of 8.Qb3. Since this often leads to an early exchange of Queens, some players who need to win will avoid it and try more usual Panov setups. One example is Blauert (2390) - Giorgadze (2605), Hamburg 1995: 9…0–0 10.0–0 Be7 11.a3 Bf6 (Or 11…Qb6 12.Qc2 h6 13.Be3 Rd8 14.Rad1 Bf6 with mutual chances in J Polgar - Granda Zuniga, New York 1992) 12.Rd1 Nxc3 13.bxc3 b6 14.Qc2 g6 15.Bh6 Bg7 16.Bxg7 Kxg7 17.Be4 Bb7 18.Ne5 Qc7 19.f4 Rac8 20.Rac1 Na5 21.Re1 Rfd8 and Black had serious pressure against White's pawns on c3 and d4 (0-1 in 45).

10.Bd2

Avoiding 10.0-0? Bxc3 11.bxc3 Qxb3 12.axb3 Nxc3 when Black has won a pawn.

10…Ba5!

THE KEY IDEA

This is Black's main idea. By threatening to take on d4 and exchange Queens, all of White's dynamic potential vanishes into thin air.

Note that the tempting 10...Nxd4 is a bad idea because Black rarely wants to blast the position open and start a fight when his King is still in the middle: 11.Nxd4 Qxd4 12.Bb5+ Kf8 13.0–0–0 Bxc3 14.Bxc3 Qxf2 15.Qb4+! Kg8 (and not 15…Nxb4 16.Bxb4+ when mate follows) 16.Rhe1! (Adding threats of Rxd5 to the mix.) 16…Bd7 (or 16…Qxg2 17.Qd6 Qg5+ 18.Bd2 Qf6 19.Qxd5 and White wins) 17.Rxd5 exd5 18.Bxd7 with a winning advantage.

11.0–0 Qxb3 12.axb3 Bb6 13.Bc4

13...Nde7

Black has already equalized.

14.Na4 Bc7

Not falling for 14...Bxd4? 15.Nxd4 Nxd4 16.Nb6 Rb8 17.Bf4 winning the Exchange.

15.b4 a6 16.Nc3

On 16.Nc5 (threatening to take advantage of the pinned a-pawn by b4-b5) Black should calmly get his Rook off the a-file by 16...Rb8 with equal chances.

16...0–0

The sane move. It was still possible to let greed spoil the position: 16...Nxb4? 17.Nb5 Nbd5 18.Rfc1 Bb8 19.Bxd5 exd5 20.Nc7+ Bxc7 21.Rxc7 when White has a powerful initiative for the sacrificed pawn.

17.b5 Na5 18.Ba2 axb5 19.Nxb5 Bb6 20.Ne5 Nac6 21.Bc3, 1/2-1/2, J Polgar – Smyslov, Women vs. Veterans, Aruba 1992. After 21…Nxe5 22.dxe5 Bd7 23.Nd6 Bc6 White would have nothing to play for.